Bohemian Beach Rhapsody

Life’s a beach – and I almost feel like I’m back in my early twenties, back when the best thing I could have under my feet was a windsurfing board and a layer of neoprene on my body. Stretches of sandy beaches, crystal clear water, coconut palm trees and, surprisingly, a very happening selection of music from the beach bars’ speakers. What’s there to say? I love the beach-bum life! And right at this moment my family and I are living it to the max. Siri in particular looks her part with her almost dreadlock curls and her bandana playing on the beach.
We are at Koh Mak Island. One of the less touristy islands of off Koh Chang, Thailand. We have hit the backpackers’ favorite spot and are staying in a tiny and very modest multicolored cement cabaña. It´s a squeeze, but manageable and with mattresses and mosquito-nets we have everything we need for sleeping. We are outside most of the time anyways. My dear colleague Preben, who is somewhat of an expert when it comes to planes and hotels, would most definitely classify this as a no star accommodation establishment. It is basic – no frills, but what it lacks in luxury it has excessively in atmosphere, friendliness and great (sea) food. Actually the food is so extravagantly good and inexpensive that tourist staying in the much more up-scale and posh resorts walk along the beach to come for dinner here. Fresh Barracuda, giant prawns, crabs, scallops, shark, + various kinds of fish are put on the BBQ every night and tables and chairs are moved directly on to the beach and lanterns are strung up between the palm trees. And that way we dine, accompanied by the setting sun, the waves rolling in and out and we are finished by the time it is pitch black and the stars are out.
Between Yogis and hippies
We are staying here for 10 relaxing days to rid ourselves of city stress. And believe me there is absolutely no stress here at laid back Koh Mak. It’s funny with little islands – it doesn’t matter where in the world they are situated, but they always seem to have the same feel to them. Relaxed atmosphere, a sense of time standing still, cut off from the rest of the world.
This place in particular reminds me of the island where my parents in law live – Sointula (means peace and harmony in Finnish) in B.C. Canada. The climate is definitely different but the atmosphere much the same. As with Sointula and the mix of Native Americans, crazy Finnish fishermen & retired Americans fleeing from a hectic work life, the clientele here is a great mix of people whereof, most of course, are travelling on a budget. There are the hard core yoga-people. They start out their day with a hard work out on these two risen pagodas placed in the middle of the cabañas, surrounded by fountains of water.( I’m secretly jealous, wishing that Yoga Maria (former yoga instructor at my work place) was here to guide me through an hour of Astananga yoga! For me it only amounts to 10 sun exercises on the beach in the morning). Then there are the German hippies who found a scorpion in their room and named him Heinz. The silent Finnish couple who are totally hitting the hard liquor but without changing their facial expressions even once! Just to name but a few. And then there is the totally friendly staff who is both Thai and Cambodians, trying to teach us a few phrases so that we can get by. Forgot to mention the fire-juggling hippies. I bet you have seen them around too somewhere. They are usually Caucasians trying to look Rastafarian with dreadlocks, totally hippie-wear, bare feet (and the women most definitely do not shave their armpits and could probably French braid the hairs on their legs) and they juggle these strings with burning balls at the ends. Can´t get much more hippie than that. Also hanging around are some beach volley playing Brits adding to the entertainment factor. Needless to say – it is a great mix of different people! And this is where we are getting ready and relaxed at our bohemian beach for the adventures awaiting us in the country of the Khmers: Cambodia.